This post isn't about sewing, so skip it if you are not interested in another rant about the stupidity of the "corporate world".
Now back to my sewing...
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Better than those silly fluffy slippers with the animal faces. I only wear these in the privacy of my own home. And yes, with my sandals.
These are sewn using Folkwear #129A - Japanese Tabi and BareKnits Rib Knit in Blush.
I think they would also make a great slipper if you left out the split for the toe, and used a non-slip fabric for the sole.
Friday, December 9, 2011
I followed the pattern instructions with two minor changes. The first was that I used Velcro instead of hooks for the closure. And the second is that instead of zigzagging the inside sole, I used a double row of straight stitch. This is laziness on my part. I sew most garments on my straight stitch machine and I didn't want to thread up another machine.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
I wear thong style sandals all year long. Rockports are my favourites. I have been known to wear them outside well into the winter months. Some of my sandals are designated for inside footwear.
My furnace is set at the mid-sixties Fahrenheit to conserve energy and that can mean chilly toes--especially in my studio workroom which is a semi-basement.
Regular socks don't work unless I fiddle with the toe end and that stretches them out of shape. Those silly toe socks that come and go in fashion feel like I'm wearing pedicure toe spreaders.
My solution came in the form of a Folkwear pattern--#129A Japanese Tabi. The Tabi is a Japanese sock with a split between the big and second toe that is traditionally worn with Japanese sandals or zori.
I sewed my pair of Tabis in BareKnits Rib Knit for warmth and a bit of stretch. Instead of using hooks and eyes for the closure, I opted for Velcro. They turned out very well and I'm thinking I need another pair. Who says you can't wear socks with sandals?
Sunday, November 27, 2011
See how she incorporated a multi-coloured free-form polymer clay bead as the focal point. She used Corona Black with Gold batik rayon fabric for the strips. After finishing the edges, Barb loosely plaited the strips before attaching to the focal.
Barb Alexander also conducts tours to Bali for women who wish to experience the wonderful centuries-old textile techniques that have made this Indonesian island famous: Tjap and tjanting batik, weaving, ikat, indigo, morinda. You meet the artisans and get right in on the design process with hands-on workshops. Imagine 13 days in a textile and tropical paradise!
Visit Barb's website at http://www.balifibertours.com/ to get the details.
Friday, November 25, 2011
Here are the step-by-step instructions:
1. Choose two or three fabrics that are attractive on both sides. I chose gold with brown and avocado green batik rayon.
2. Cut six one-inch strips of fabric. I used three of each colour.
3. Set up your serger for a three-thread rolled hem using your manual. I used gold serger thread in my needle and lower looper. I used forest green 40wt embroidery rayon thread in the upper looper. Test until you get an edge you are happy with.
4. Each strip will have a straight across short end and a pointed short end. To achieve this you will start to serge your strip in the middle of one short end and gradually come out to the long edge.
5. Continue to serge along the first long edge just skimming off a little of the fabric with the serger knife. I find that keeping the edge of the fabric along the edge of my serger's ledge achieves this nicely.
6. Continue serging the first edge and serge straight off the end. This short end stays straight across.
7. Turn the strip around being careful to keep the "right" side of the rolled hem edge up. Line up the previously serged edge just to the left of the presser foot and begin serging at the end that you just serged off of.
8. Continue to serge along the second edge of the fabric strip, keeping the first serged rolled hem just skimming along the left edge of your presser foot.
9. When you are close to the end of the strip you will want to start serging toward the middle to meet the beginning of the first serged edge to form a point.
10. Carefully serger off the end, forming the point. Do not cut the serger tail.
11. Continue in this manner until you have serged all six fabric strips.
15. Take the remaining three fabric strips and insert them through the second metal D-ring.
16. Place the fabric strips so that the raw ends are facing together and the D-rings are slightly off-set.
17. Stitch the fabric strips together attaching the second D-ring in the process.
18. Carefully arrange your fabric strips so they are flat and in alignment. Then take the serger tails of the pointed ends and pull them through both D-rings so the necklace ends are coming together as shown.
19. Take the same serger tails again and thread them back through the one D-ring to the left. Proceed to pull the pointed ends of the strips through and arrange to the length you prefer.
22. Wear and enjoy.
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Note: If your serger cannot do rolled hem edges or if you are afraid of them, use a three-thread narrow serged edge. If you don't have a serger, use your sewing machine. Set it to a narrow zigzag and shorten the stitch length. It will be just as pretty.