Thursday, September 16, 2010

Fantasia Jacket - A Journey

Fantasia Fleur du Soleil
The Fantasia Jacket by Kayla Kennington is based on her award-winning garment Fantasia Fleur du Soleil. Kayla has made this garment in silk organza, drapey rayon, silky velvets, silks and lace.  It is extremely versatile while being very timeless in style.

Recently I decided to make the Fantasia Jacket in a silk/cotton jacquard print with a silk/cotton semi-sheer sateen for the godets. The pattern has different versions that you can make depending on the style you are going for.  There is a cross-over tied version or a straight front version which can be joined with buttons and loops, frogs or left open.  The "bustle option" includes a set of godets at the lower middle back of the jacket. There are triple layers of godets, but you can vary the look at using one or two layers.

Fantasia Jacket Diagram

 I have opted at this point to make the straight front without the bustle.  There are 21 pattern pieces to this version. And since I have decided to line the lapels, I will need to cut 42 pieces of fabric plus 4 more to interface the lapels.  With this many pieces to keep track of, I have carefully labelled each one on the wrong side with some painters' tape.

I will be using Kayla's signature seaming technique of rolled hem edge joined with a multi-stitch zigzag. When using this option, I like to sew a straight stitch with regular poly sewing thread at the 1/4" seamline.  This takes some time but I find it stabilizes the edge and gives me a guide for the rolled hem.  I fill two bobbins as this straight stitching uses a lot of thread. This step allows me to familiarize myself with the pattern pieces and gives me time to reflect on how they will all come together.

The pattern pieces are geometric and therefore not necessarily intuitive as to how they will go together. Also, when constructing the jacket, they are some guidelines to be followed.  For example, the rolled hem has a right side and therefore the rolled hem edge must be sewn with the right side of the fabric facing up. That might seem obvious but when the right and wrong sides of the fabric are similar, it's easy to make a mistake and rolled hem is almost impossible to remove. In addition, the pieces are joined in a specific sequence and it's not the traditional way to sew a jacket.

Today I am going to finish off the straight stitching to stabilize the edges and to interface the collar to give it more strength.

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